Back in Japan (Jan 2015)...Visiting Kanzuri in Myoko, Niigata

Naoko, the Kanzuri Girl...I helped "Yuki Sarashi"

The main mission of this trip to Myoko was to visit the artisan producer of Kanzuri, a traditional fermented product of red chile, rice koji, yuzu, and salt, from the region.


We took a train from Myoko Kogen to Arai, the rice was about 25 minutes.


Tojo-san, the 3rd generation of the family-run artisan Kanzuri producer (their company name is also Kanzuri), came to pick us up at the station and took us to their office first. Then, we drove again for about 5 minutes to a different site, where they do "Yuki Sarashi" during the snowy winter between the end of January and March. They grow their own chiles as well as source from local farmers. After the chiles are harvested, they are pickled in salt for a few months. They are rinsed and spread over the snow ground and left for a few days. Meanwhile, the chiles were sometimes covered deep under the snow. The snow removes the bitterness and excess saltines from the chiles and make them taste milder. It's just such an amazingly beautiful view of all the bright and large red chile peppers thrown on the snow ground. They also smelled very nice!


I got to try "Yuki Sarashi", too! After just a minute, my head was numb from the blowing snow. I realized it's a labor-intensive work. And, it's a very important process to make the rich-flavored kanzuri.


Kanzuri is a true artisan fermented product, made only from the natural ingredients, red chile peppers, salt, rice koji, and yuzu rind, and made in the very natural manner. Once the snow-rested salt-pickled red chiles are collected, they are pureed and mixed with the rest of the ingredients to start the fermentation process. The fermentation lasts at least 3 years to 6 years. Kanzuri is the result of the artisan skills, intense labor, and a lot of love, made in the specially terroir-oriented environment. Therefore, the nature of Kanzuri production is very different from Yuzu-kosho (also include chile pepper, salt, and yuzu rind), which doesn't require such long processes of making, and Kanzuri's production is far more limited than Yuzu-kosho. Kanzuri is also much milder and more umami-rich compared to Yuzu-kosho, because Kanzuri is fermented with rice koji and also aged for much longer time.

Father and son of the Tojo family gave such generous hospitality to us. They were such sweet people, and I could see a little bottle of Kanzuri is packed with their love!


After the visit, they took us to lunch at a local sushi restaurant, which they also own. Look how high the snow is piling and the building is half buried! They said this is just very typical in the region.


The sushi lunch was unbelievable! It's a casual place, with the top quality seafood caught right from the coast of Sea of Japan, just 20 minutes from there. I totally enjoyed the sushi of shirako (cod sperm), nodoguro, kanburi (winter yellowtail), etc. Niigata's winter seafood is so amazing. We enjoyed with local sake, made by Kiminoi Shuzo, which is also just around the corner.

I didn't want to leave Myoko...place with amazing people, food, and sake.

Back in Japan (Jan 2015)...Onsen time in Snowy Myoko, Niigata

Locally caught Nodoguro fish shabu shabu

Just a few days after coming back from Hawaii to LA, I packed again to go back to Japan. I've been traveling so much that I'm losing sense of time now.


The next day, I was already on my way to Myoko, Niigata. My friend, Akiko, and I traveled together to Nagaoka, Niigata, last year together. This year, we decided to come to Myoko, another heavy snowy region. After a shinkansen and local train rides, we were there. We checked in at a historic hotel there. Our room had a great view of ski slope right in front of us! It was fun to watch the experienced skiers and snow boarders from the room.


I instantly fell in love with this resort. The hotel was originally built in 1937. After several remodelings, they still maintain the beautiful classic style.


Their classic fruit cakes are very famous. They also bake artisan bread and pastries every day on the premises.


The snow was falling non-stop. We enjoyed relaxing onsen (hot spring) time outdoor. After the onsen, Fino Sherry tasted very nice at the bar.


Dinner was a kaiseki (traditional Japanese seasonal course meal) with local ingredients.


Myoko is a short drive from the Sea of Japan coast, so the dinner was full of fresh catches of the winter seafood from there.


Nodoguro fish shabu shabu was amazing!! The fish was perfectly fatty and I cooked it to rare to enjoy.


And, of course, local Koshihikari rice and a lot of local sake! It was such an outstanding meal.


The next day, as soon as we woke up, we enjoyed morning onsen. The view from the outdoor bath was breathtaking. It was another very snowy day.


Then, we had breakfast with the great snow view. I loved the yuba (tofu skin) hot pot with soy milk, and local koshihikari porridge.

SHAKALOHA!...Trip to Hawaii

Feeling so SHAKALOHA!

Last week, I had a trip to Oahu with 3 friends. We ate, drank, shopped, played, and relaxed during the 5-day stay. It's been a few years since my last visit to Oahu, and I found some new places, too.


First night, we had dinner at Cafe Miro. This place has been around for years and makes me feel nostalgic coming here. The food is consistently good here, and I enjoyed it ver much.


Both Chinatown and Downtown Honolulu is becoming more exciting with new cool shops and restaurants. One of the most popular restaurants in Chinatown is The Pig and the Lady. It's a modern Vietnamese restaurant. We got there as soon as they opened for lunch, and soon after the spacious restaurant was packed!


Here is another popular place in Chinatown. It's called Lucky Belly. We had a great time dining there. Both the food and service were excellent! Aloha hospitality.


We also hit some very classic places in Waikiki. Lunch at Veranda at Moana Surfrider was elegant and nice. And, yes, had some Mai Tai at Mai Tai Bar at Royal Hawaiian.


Dinner at MW Restaurant was wonderful, too. I loved my Kanpachi dish. And, another fun place (I didn't get to take photos...) was Izakaya Naru. It's an Okinawan izakaya, so there are many classic Okinawa-style dishes (lots of pork belly!) and other dishes. They have a good Okinawa awamori shochu (Okinawa-style spirit), too.


Some beach time.

　
Cruising.


On Saturday, we went to a farmers market at KCC. This is the largest one in Oahu and the venue was so crowded both locals and tourists. I got some fresh macadamia nuts, etc.


I found this poster at a shopping center. There is such a thing as Saimin Burger...Really?!

Something really amazing happened in this trip. On one morning, while I was jogging near Diamond Head, I immediately recognized another jogger who quickly passed me by from the other direction...it was Haruki Murakami, an internationally renowned author, whom I have been admiring since I was a low teenager! In the same afternoon, I got news that the donabe cookbook manuscript I've worked so hard on the past so many months was officially accepted by the publisher. So, I feel the encounter was a good luck sign!! Mahalo.